Trip Report of the Yarlung Tsangpo Expedition.
October 1998, Lhasa.
[I believe this is Tom McEwan's account. ---Rsk ]
Four American kayakers on October 5 launched boats onto the Yarlung Tsangpo River
in East Tibet. At the town of Pei the water appeared a medium-brown color, flowing
swiftly, about 1/3 mile wide. Considering high water marks left recently on the banks, the
river had been at high water about ten days before. Now, it was estimated to be at a
medium-high level, 10 ft.-20 ft. lower on the banks. Over the next few weeks, water
levels continued to drop 2"-4" daily.
The River Team considered the stretch from Pei to Gyala, about 18 mi., a warm-up
before entering the heart of the gorge. From topographical information, the gradient
was not judged to be as steep above Gyala as would be encountered below. A
well-travelled trail following the river allowed the Support Team of Harry and Doris
Wetherbee and videographer, Paulo Castillo, to walk to Gyala, and provide resupply.
In this part of the trip the four paddlers, Jamie McEwan, Roger Zbel, Doug Gordon,
and Tom McEwan, were able to assess the "Himalayan" magnitude of river and
terrain, and to develop appropriate methods. Paddling and carrying, usually avoiding the
main flow, and scouting far ahead, they took four days to arrive at Gyala. Jamie
paddled for only two, as on the second day, preparing to launch, he slipped off a rock
along the edge of a large rapid. His sprayskirt was not fully attached, allowing his boat
to fill with water, and he was forced to swim. While he easily attained an eddy, his
boat with all his equipment disappeared downstream. He was forced from that point to hike
to Gyala. Later, his boat and all his equipment would be found and returned to Gyala
by Tibetan hunters and pilgrims.
Leaving Gyala the four kayakers, expecting to spend significant time on foot
scouting the river, carried 15 days of food. Their plan was to meet up with the Support
Team of Wick Walker and Dave Phillips near Rainbow Falls, about 26 miles from Gayala.
The latter were hiking up the gorge with porters and supplies for the Expedition's
next segment. On October 16, at about 11 AM, as the River Team made their way down
the left side of the river, avoiding the main current out in the middle, they stopped to
scout the rocky edge of a large rapid. Doug, Jamie, and Roger considered several
possible routes, while Tom set up downstream on a boulder to do video and to hold a safety
rope. Doug went first, choosing a line over an 8 ft. waterfall hugging the side of
the river. Aiming for an eddy just below, he would boof/skip over the rock and land
himself in the left-hand eddy. However, he was unable to clear the hydraulic at the foot
of the falls, causing him to be caught
and pushed toward the main part of the river. Then, freed from the hydraulic and still in
his upturned boat, he yet had opportunity to recover, allowing him room to paddle to
shore. During this time whilst in the reaches of safety Doug attempted two rolls which
were both
unsuccessful,and he continued to drift further out into the middle of the current.
He and his boat were now well out of range of the safety rope. His three team mates
watched helplessly as he was then swept into the rapid below-- a certainly fatal series of
recirculating hydraulics ---and out of sight.
The search for Doug began immediately. Tom and Roger raced over rocks down the
shore, while Jamie unloaded his boat, carried the stretches of difficult rapids, and
paddled down the river. The next four days were devoted to moving downstream and
scanning the shores for any remains of Doug or his equipment. Wick and Dave
(support-team), alerted by satellite phone, reached the river and began a search
downstream. On October 20, 8.5 miles below the accident site, the two groups met, and the
search was called off. Doug was presumed dead. All local and national authorities, as well
as families concerned, were notified of the accident.
At this point expedition members made the decision to discontinue the expedition
and to return home by the most direct route. They were still seven days of hiking
and three days driving from Lhasa. A small ceremony alongside the river was held, with the
local Tibetan porters and the Americans participating. Songs both Tibetan and American
were sung. A
square stone with Doug's name written on it was cast into the river according to local
custom.
The next day while all were preparing to leave, the porters, hoping to bargain for
more more money, decided it was in their best advantage to threaten abandonment of the
Americans and of their equipment. They packed their bags and marched out of camp, only to
return in a couple of hours when their manoeuvre did not seem to be working. The
Expedition arrived back in Lhasa Nov. 3.
The River Team travelled a total of 35 miles down the Tsangpo (out of the 140 mile
gorge originally intended), passing between the 25,000 and 23,000 ft. peaks of Namcha
Barwa and Galiperi respectively. New methods of long range scouting were developed
to prevent the team's being trapped into a position of no escape, and which allowed the
team to make the progress that it did. The Support Team was able to meet up with the River
Team deep within the gorge after journeying over some of the most extreme, Himalayan
terrain. The expedition members deeply regret the death of loyal friend and team mate,
Doug Gordon, an expert kayaker who lost his life in this challenging undertaking.
WERE WE FOOLISH TO BE ON THE RIVER AT THAT LEVEL?
by Jamie McEwan
In light of what happened to Doug, it's easy to say yes to the question above. At this
point, knowing the consequences to him, naturally, I wish we had never put on. And
yet, take away the benefit of hindsight, I believe I would again make the same decision,
if I were in the same situation:
When we arrived at Pei and first looked at the river's flow not far above the gorge, Roger
at once voiced some doubts about the enterprise, suggesting that it might be wise to run
an easier canyon upstream, or perhaps the tributary Po Tsangpo. Tom suggested a long
scout, giving the river a chance to drop, or perhaps to paddle down to the first major
obstacle, where we might camp and wait for the water to further recede. (We had a
report from 10 days earlier, from German kayaker Lukas Blucher, that the river was
70-90,000 cfs; we estimated the flow at our arrival at between 25 and 50,000. The
banks showed evidence of a 10-20 foot vertical drop within the last few weeks, and we
knew, from placing markers, that it was dropping still. It was no longer flood
level--the river was well within its banks, probably 30 vertical feet below its vegetation
line. Still, it was considerably higher than the 5 to 15,000 we had hoped for.)
Doug and I were consistently on the side of putting in and working our way downstream in
something approaching our normal river-running mode: paddle what we could, scout and
portage where we must. Yes, Doug admitted, it might quickly turn into
"boat-assisted hiking," rather than river running, and we would not cover
anything close to the full mileage planned. But why not paddle down and at least
begin our hike from a point further downstream? If need be we could always retreat
to Pei, but if we could get anywhere close to Rainbow Falls, we could hike out with Wick
and "complete the loop." And, not entirely incidentally, we would have
passed that theoretical line joining the two peaks--through the deepest canyon in the
world.
We had all been in places on other rivers, above unrunnable waterfalls, huge holes, or
rock sieves, where a missed eddy or a swim would have sent us into situations of great
danger, even of probable death. This, in itself, was not new. The difference
was not in degree, but rather in the constancy of the danger. It was hard for us to
get used to the idea that we could not often find a place where we could safely ferry the
river; the current in the river's center was so inexorable that we rarely dared venture
there, for fear of being
swept into the next unrunnable portion. However, we felt that by taking the same
sort of precautions we always took, we would only tackle those risks that we felt we could
handle. Even if this meant hiking most of the way.
I don't see the flaw in this reasoning. The only way I can imagine that we were
affected by the "Tsangpo difference"--by the unusually unrelenting downstream
push of the current--was that our healthy fear may have become dulled, we might have
become inured to the danger because of its constant nature. Yet, in all, and judging
particularly from Doug's comments that morning, including soon before his run, I don't
think this was the case.
I believe that there is no particular "reason" for Doug's death, nor moral to be
drawn, other than that which Doug wrote about in reference to Richie Weiss's death the
summer before: that running hard whitewater is dangerous, and that those doing so must
accept that danger as the price of pursuing their sport at a high level.